Join us now! Forgot Your Password? Forgot your Username? Haven't received registration validation E-mail? User Control Panel Log out. Forums Posts Latest Posts. View More. Recent Blog Posts. Recent Photos. View More Photo Galleries. Unread PMs. Forum Themes Mobile Progressive. Essentials Only Full Version. Paul P. Max Output Level: First, let's name my monitors: Monitor A is the faulty, Monitor B is the good one.
Since I swaped the tweeters last week, I have been listening to some music on my monitor B alone, now equipped with the tweeter from Monitor A.
And this was OK How's Monitor A doing now? Is is now playing ok? If so, it certainly points to the tweeter. Shall I conclude that the original A tweeter is responsible for "contaminating" the electronic circuits that feed it!?!
It looks as if there is a sort of interaction between one and the other If monitor A is indeed OK, then just moving the tweeter around may have jolted its voice coil enough to play properly for while. Hi everyone I am a pro keyboard player living in Cape Town South Africa and recently decided to create my own home studio. They are around 4 years old so no warranty unfortunately.
After an hour or so of use, the one monitor begins making what I can only describe as a distorted pulsating sound which seems to speed up and suddenly the woofer produces no sound whatsoever.
The tweeter continues to work fine. The second monitor has no problems at all. After unplugging and unpowering both monitors for a few hours, I then switch both on and the they both work flawlessly After replacing ALL cables including audio and power, the problem still persisted.
So, I took the monitor to the only qualified technician at a local music store the agents for KRK in Cape Town who, after running it for a few days, reported that there were " no problems found". Imagine my surprise! So I collected the monitor, plugged it all in and sat back to enjoy my newly serviced Rokit 6. My joy was short lived as at around an hour later Took it back to the technician who kept it for 2 weeks and replaced various amplifier parts and gave it the "all clear". So now I'm sitting here at my home studio experiencing the same problem once again.
I have searched for so long to try and find out whats causing this and have found this very informative site.Discussion in ' Sound City ' started by Rowan88Jul 27, Log in or Sign up.
KRK ROKIT POWERED SERIES User Manual
I wanna see if both share the same power supply. If one of my speakers is playing music but it sounds like there is no bass what would be the cause of that?? Your question is a bit vague but I will guess the best as I can. There is 2 amplifier IC in the board the TDA, one of this drives the tweeter and the other the woofer if the TDA that is driving the the woofer goes faulty then the low frequency including the bass will be gone and you will only hear the highs treble that is coming from the tweeter.
Aug 2, at AM That sounds about right. Aug 2, at PM If you just want to replace the that drives the woofer you can use a mono board similar to the one below. LM - isolated tab, can be mounted to heatsink directly without insulator TDA - needs insulator when mounting to heatsink. How can I tell which ICT is for the woofer? You can use a multi-meter in continuity setting to locate the IC. You can also manually follow the wiring from the positive connection of the woofer speaker going to the board and through the pcb trace on the underside of the board to the IC.
Aug 5, at PM Just got my multi-meter in the post today so will give a try checking some of the components out to know which is broke and which isn't. I also lost a bit of patience with it the other day and managed to end up breaking off some of the solder pads near the IC so I don't even know if they will work anymore and would probably make more sense buying two new boards.
So if I wanted to get both working I would just need to buy two of these?????Remember Me? Music Electronics Forum. What's New? Forum Music Electronics Anyone know of a schematic for this? Results 1 to 15 of Thread: Anyone know of a schematic for this? Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Anyone know of a schematic for this? I don't have a schematic, but if it is the same KRK 5 powered speakers I have been seeing there are a few common problems. KRK is Gibson I think These problems are common to a lot of these powered speakers of several brands.
The most common failure is the power supply filter caps opening up. They underrated the voltage spec because of size and space considerations. You have to be careful replacing them because of double sided boards and they use the cap leads for feed throughs.
You also get bad connections because those boards can get rattled pretty good inside those cabs. Most of these monitors are bi amped. I have been able to source replacement speakers and tweeters for some via MCM, but if you do that you better do it in pairs.
Working on them isn't really that difficult once you get past the globs of glue on the components, lol. They really aren't that complicated, just tedious and you have to dig in.
Hope this helps. Originally Posted by olddawg. Here is a similar one I have on file. Hope it helps. Drewline When was the last time you did something for the first time? Originally Posted by Drewline. Yes, thanks all! I'm busy at the moment but i'll check them out later.
KRK Rokit Horrible Noise!
Appreciate it!!!!! The other one is just too low quality to read anything. Maybe i can screen shoot it and do something in photoshop but not likely. This is just my luck! Oh well, thanks for trying, appreciate it. What seems to be the problem you're having? I get a lot of these for repairs.
Originally Posted by diydidi. Good on you!! For a start, remove all the goop where you can.Join us now! Forgot Your Password? Forgot your Username? Haven't received registration validation E-mail? User Control Panel Log out. Forums Posts Latest Posts. View More. Recent Blog Posts.
Recent Photos. View More Photo Galleries. Unread PMs. Forum Themes Mobile Progressive. Essentials Only Full Version. But wouldn't you know it, 10 months after the extended warranty expired, one of the monitors starting failing! Now isn't that typical?!? Upon power-up, one of the drivers emitted quiet crackling and static. Sometimes, this static and crackling would subside and not return, as if the monitor had "warmed up.
I am very familiar with board-level components, troubleshooting, repair, circuit design, soldering, etc. It's what I went to college for and up until a few years ago, I made and shipped original, audio and computer mod devices all over the world.
My real job, however, has nothing to do with circuits and repair! But enough about me, let's talk about fixing these speakers! All components ordered from Digi-Key. I have some 1W resistors, but not 2. Steps: 1.
Turn monitor on it's side as shown and remove the 8, Philips pan-head screws around the perimeter of the backplate. Take a small flathead screwdriver and pry the backplate from the cabinet.
Drop it down to the table. Check out the capacitors and the resistors for trouble. I've included pictures of the particular trouble that plagued my speaker. Basically, it's glue to hold various components and connectors onto the board, preventing vibrations from disconnecting or breaking them.
The bulging capacitor means that it has failed. In my haste, I did not pre-measure the failed capacitor's voltage while powered on.If you get stuck in repairing a defective appliance download this repair information for help.
See below. Good luck to the repair! Please do not offer the downloaded file for sell only use it for personal usage! Looking for other manual? Please tick the box below to get download link:. If you have any question about repairing write your question to the Message board. For this no need registration. Please take a look at the below related repair forum topics.KRK Rokit 5 Monitor & 10S Subwoofer Review Video
May be help you to repair. If you are not familiar with electronics, do not attempt to repair! You could suffer a fatal electrical shock! Instead, contact your nearest service center!
Translate this page:. Schematics required. Very expensive! When I stored them, they were working fine. When I tried to use a few days ago, one of them simply hums loudly at 50Hz.
I have tried replacing the two uF PSU capacitors, as I found on Google that sometimes they can become depolarised but this has not solved the problem. I am trying to find a schematic for both the main board which has the PSU and the PA stage and the pre-amp board.StonedPsy Sep 5, Log in or Sign up. PsyMusic UK. I ordered a couple of these online a few days ago and got them yesterday.
Couldn't use both because I was waiting for a splitter cable to arrive so that I could plug them both into my iMac, but I tried them out separately and they both sounded fine from what I remember.
When I got back I saw my two-to-one cable had arrived, so I plugged them both into my computer and tried them out. It wasn't too noticeable at first, but the left monitor wasn't letting off as much of the low end as the right one and the kick sounded crunchy and distorted. I tried messing around with the speaker panning thing on my computer's sound settings, but it didn't do much.
Over the period of about 5 minutes it got worse, and now there's literally no bass coming through the left speaker which was weak and distorted. I'm a total noob with sound equipment and everything, but if I'm using the correct names here, the tweeter is working fine and the woofer is half dead. Any idea what's going on here? Have I done something terribly wrong and killed them, or is it more likely the monitor is faulty?
It worked fine on its own yesterday. StonedPsySep 5, What happens if you switch them over on the cable? NabLaSep 5, I've tried switching all the cables around and all that and it's still the same. I've just noticed that when they're at a decent volume I can hear the low end which is still distorted and not very solidbut at a low volume it's pretty much non-existent.
NoctopusSep 5, I would suspect the cable. Really you want a nice sound card to hook your monitors up rather than relying on you on board sound and shitty line out. Or are you coming out of the headphone port? Agree x 1 List. I'm plugged in through the headphone port thing, yeah.
I tried switching the cables, but I'll give it another go in case I missed something along the way. StonedPsySep 6, If they don't solve the problem your monitor is faulty and you're best looking into what kind of warranty it has. Informative x 1 List.
GoneWestSep 6, ContinuumSep 6, Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. Did you miss your activation email? This topic This board Entire forum Google Bing.
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KRK RoKit G2 User Manual
Read times. AllTe Newbie Posts: 3 Country:. How to do it mechanically, electronically. Not with the software RMAS? First of all, you might get a better response if you put some more information and effort into your question as well as document what you've already tried. However, I did look at some disassembly videos of this unit and one thing caught my eye. There is a white cable 3 lines going from power supply to the main amp board.
If I've seen the designations correctly one of them is ST which might be a standby signal. I would suggest you take a photo of the board next to the connector for this cable both sides where the writing is visible. You could also measure the voltages on the three lines when the unit is operating as well as when it goes into standby power-off? It appears that is the only way the mainboard could turn itself off completely so if we can bypass a turnoff signal it might keep the unit on all the time.
The following users thanked this post: AllTe. The voltage does not change whether it is in standby mode or not. Maybe it depends on that i measured with a cheap multimeter. Cutting the lines one by one results in a click of the relay and complete silence.
New KRK Rokit 6 monitor not working
Reconnection works in the opposite way. I added a photo. I just found reverse-engineered schematic to similar model and as far as I understood it, there is what I could've done: 1.
Get the datasheet for main amplifier ICs, those beefy chips on the heatsink, they should have standby input pin 2.